
It's no secret that I'm a pilgrim to chef Mario Batali's mecca. But even I was surprised to be the first patron to cross Osteria Mozza's threshold on opening day.
Upon
entering, the excitement and anticipation is palpable, as if everyone
snapped into place moments before. All eyes are on the "walk-ins" as we
approach the dazzling white marble Mozzarella bar at 5:45 pm. The
dapperly appointed servers at attention, eager chefs at the bar, a
smiling chef Nancy Silverton, and a flushed pony-tailed chef Mario Batali (sporting a pink shirt and orange crocs) all track our first reactions.
The
space feels sophisticated and welcoming, with an expanse of silvery
sage blue walls up to vast airy ceilings. Mario recalls the feeling you
get in Grand Central Station, amidst all the hustle-and-bustle -- which
this restaurant is sure to see -- when you look up and sense the
grandiosity of the space as it absorbs the noise around you.
Immediately,
we're greeted with a Mozzarella rollatini with capers, pesto, tomatoes
and olives, and we celebrate our good fortune with a glass of Prosecco.
The late afternoon sun ambiently enhances the crystal glasses, baroque
wine decanters, gleaming silver, and clean white linens that dot the
setting.

The
menu offers a range of Antipasti, specialties from the Mozzarella bar,
Primi, Secondi and Contorni inspired by the Bologna region in Italy. To
start, we select Prosciutto di Parma and melon with extra virgin olive
oil. The Antipasti is composed before our eyes. The melon is snatched
from one of the many eclectic still-life-esque bowls on top of the
counter. On the back counter of the mozzarella bar sits the Osteria's
"prestige piece" -- a glorious fire engine red antique Berkel deli meat slicer, loaded with a gorgeous leg of prosciutto and primed for thin slicing.

The
meltaway proscuitto and drippingly succulent sweet melon combination is
a dream. We learn the melons were sourced on Wednesday at the Santa Monica Farmers' Market and are of the Charentais variety.
Our next two dishes are specialties from the Mozzarella bar and both champion Burrata cheese. With renowned chef Nancy Silverton in command of her celebrated station, we know we're in store for some incredible compositions.

The
Burricotti, braised artichokes, pine nuts, currants and mint pesto on
grilled bread is stunning in terms of its flowery presentation and
multidimensional taste.
Oozing with richness, the Burrata with
asparagus, hazelnuts, brown butter and guanciale on grilled bread sends
waves of creamy nutty troughs and crisp salty crests.

For
the Primi course, our party-of-three splits two classic pastas from
Mario's arsenal: Orechiette with sausage and Swiss chard, and
Agnolotti, burro e salvia. Both are sublime fresh pastas. The perfect
flavor balance and texture of the Orechiette -- finished with a trail
of breadcrumbs -- trips us all out to the moon and back. This may be
the best rendition of this pasta we've ever tasted.
The
Agnolotti defines decadence with its silken filling of chicken,
pancetta, and mortadella spiked with nutmeg in a substantial
saged-scented butter sauce. (Note: the pasta portions seen in our
photos have been split three ways -- they are normally much larger.)

Local
Santa Barbara Spot Prawns are standouts on the Secondi menu. They
arrive whole in an outrageous "al diovolo" sauce that we attempt to
break down, crowned with shaved scallions. Turns out it's an amazingly
fresh and piquant combination of garlic, white wine, red Fresno chiles, passato di pomodoro, and basil.

After
stammering over braised or grilled beef, we opt for the Grilled Beef
Tagliatta, rucola and Parmigiano with aceto balsamic. Such high quality
ingredients shine here, especially the incredibly tender and flavorful
beef.

Dinner
at the Mozzarella bar is an engaging and exciting scene. If you are
enthralled by the glory of food preparation, then I highly recommend
sitting here in the center of the action.
We're happy that Mario
imported Babbo's signature rockin' mix for the Osteria soundtrack, with
the likes of Elvis Costello, Astrid & Bebel Gilberto, REM,
Coldplay, and Neil Young. The music matches the buzzy upbeat vibe.
Honestly,
what more could you ask for in a Los Angeles Osteria? And by partnering
with chef Nancy Silverton, team Batali and Bastianich ensure
authenticity with the best of LA's local purveyors and ingredients.
PHOTOS BY BRETT CODY ROGERS
via http://epicureanquest.blogspot.com/