Ocean Grill Underperforms
Ocean Grill
117 Martin Luther King Boulevard
Madison, WI 53705
11:30 am-2 pm Monday-Friday, 5-9 pm Monday-Thursday, 5-10 pm Friday-Saturday
608.255.2587
www.foodfightinc.com/oceangrill.htm
$$$$$
There's a certain art to pricing menus. It's an act of balance: price too low and your profit margins are too thin, price too high and your margin for error is too thin. In the case of Ocean Grill, the prominent Food Fight restaurant overcharges, and by so doing evaporates customer patience for many missteps in planning and execution by the servers and the kitchen.
The concept seems to be California Cuisine, or possibly Mediterranean seafood in a business-hip mode, which turns out to be not very hip. Electronic music from a decade ago pulses quietly into a room done up with metal and wood and accented by sea foam and charcoal tones. A digital aquarium--no real fish here--is exemplary of the both sterile aesthetic and the muddled thinking of the proprietors. A patio is open in the summer, affording a nice view of the capitol building.
The drink lists are not particularly cogent, an indicator of more conceptual confusion. Infused vodka cocktails jostle with tropical rum-based frou-frou drinks and a very nice Champagne menu. The wine list is heavily drawn from Napa and Sonoma vineyards but there are nods to Italy, France, Argentina, and Australia. Some standouts: the 2005 Trinchero, Mary's Vineyard in Napa, packs a heady nose of melon and hibiscus and a crisp, complex mineral finish. The 2005 Riff Pinot Grigio, delle Venezie ($4/8/32) has a refined nose, a citrus, dry taste and is perfect with oysters.
The oysters on the half-shell were by far the best moments of several meals. You can choose from East or West coast on a given night. The Dababs from Washington State were vivacious, bursting with subtle undertones of brine and served with a mignonette of fruit juices, rice wine vinegar, and horseradish. Beware: the cocktail sauce was an indifferent ruination of a perfectly good oyster. Fresh shaved horseradish with a squeeze of fresh lemon proved to the best accompaniment.
The six Nueske's Bacon-Wrapped Day Boat Scallops ($12), served with thin slices of Granny Smith apples and an edible orchid were an utterly bland disappointment until we realized that by swabbing them in the sweet apple cider gastrique we could actually improve the fish taste. The texture combination would have greatly benefited from a touch more crispness to the bacon (but the strips are easier to wrap around the scallops undercooked). The visual presentation of this dish is quite beautiful, but is anyone in the kitchen tasting the food they are sending out?
The flesh of the Flash-Fried Calamari ($10) is excellent but is served with two poorly chosen sauces: chipotle-plum and spicy peanut.
The Confit of Tomato Bruschetta ($8) is lifeless and unremarkable.
A Caesar Salad, priced differently in conjunction with various entrees, hovers around $8 and was too heavily dressed, soaked in an anchovy Caesar helped marginally by squeezing the accompanying sliced lemons.
The Seafood Enchiladas ($10) are more creative, wrapping delicious blue crab, rock shrimp, cream cheese, and a piquant salsa verde in warm corn tortillas.
The entrees are generally fish or steak. You may order a selection of fresh fishes with the sauce of your choice for $19; the Pacific Sea Bass is a good bet. You may order a variety of Angus Beef Tenderloins or New York Strip, all served with either a mushroom or peppercorn sauce with a variable vegetable side; the steaks are decent and well matched by the robust tannins of the 2003 Napa Valley Folie a Deux Cabernet Sauvignon ($7/14/55).
You may also order a variety of specialty fish dishes. The Sesame Crusted Ahi ($26) is prepared correctly and is a delight, but this is really more about the chefs executing a classic recipe--batter the sashimi steaks with egg whites, roll them in black and white sesame seeds and pan-sear hard, slice and serve--than innovative cooking, though the cilantro-soy reduction is a thoughtful touch.
The Swordfish ($26), a fish many rightly feel trepidation in ordering, is styled Vera Cruz and is quite good. The blackened exterior sheaths a tender and flavorful interior, and the tomato reduction atop is an excellent compliment to the spicy red beans.
The Grilled Prawns ($27) are a wonderment of confused design. Hoison barbecue-chipotle sauce at the base felt thick and cloying, a mound of couscous at the center wasn't expected or tasty, the prawns themselves were prime specimens deprecated by a heavy pomegranate treatment, and the incongruous abundance of sauteed squash juliennes added nothing to the dish. Also, it's a Larry David/Borscht Belt one-liner scenario, where the dish is terrible--and there aren't enough prawns.
The service is knowledgeable and polite but inclined to boneheaded maneuvers like taking flatware without replacing it (it's harder to eat when you have to share a knife) and forgetting to bring bread, then taking away the bread plates in the hope that you won't notice you never got bread or butter while the tables next to you enjoy both. Charging for items that weren't ordered doesn't help, either.
When you have $28 dishes on your menu in Madison, the entire experience had better be pretty special on some level. And you need to serve bread and provide utensils. Lunch at Ocean Grill is a better option than dinner as the pain of the bill is somewhat mitigated, but a restaurant that can't stand on its dinner menu isn't playing for keeps.
Fresh Foodie Rating: 2 of 5.
Credit cards are accepted.
